Behind the Scenes at UTMB Week in Chamonix, France
By: Peter Maksimow
During a big, loud, impressive, epic UTMB Mont-Blanc®, Run the Alps’ friend – photographer Peter Maksimow – took a look at the side of Chamonix that wasn’t so focused on the races.
Join us for a walk down side alleys, grab a bite at local eateries, study the details, and notice the crowds who are part of the scene but not on the race courses.
The Scenery (Le Paysage)
Chamonix is known for its beauty, from the view of the omnipresent, snow-capped Mont Blanc to the old Art Deco and Art Nouveau architecture. Everywhere you look, there are towering peaks, church steeples reaching skyward, ancient glaciers, and impressive wooden-shuttered windows. Sometimes the beauty is in the details, such as a mythical beast spouting water from its mouth at a communal fountain. Other times it’s the looming Mont Blanc massif. Big or small, the views will have you drooling… and uttering, incroyable!
Alpine Springs (La Source Des Pècles)
Sourced from the glacial melt of the Mont Blanc massif, alpine springs are located throughout the valley and serve as a crucial water source for hikers, runners and livestock. The decorative, often elaborate granite cisterns with brass spouts in the likeness of lions and dragons were mostly installed in the 19th century, though some date back as far as 1480. These springs serve as the drinking water for villages and homes, and during a 172K run around Mont Blanc, they also provide a much-needed chance to cool down.
Flower Power (Pouvoir des Fleurs)
I always get pleasure from a well-maintained flower box! It improves the appearance of the home and my outlook on the day. Chamonix is abundant with flower-adorned chalets, hotels and other commercial buildings. Even the bridges over the milky waters from the glacial melt flowing through town have their very own boxes that are overflowing with deep purples, vibrant reds, snowy whites and bright violets.
Gelato (Glace)
Gelato, Ice Cream, however you say it, it’s a popular post-run or after-meal treat in Chamonix. Wandering the pedestrian streets, like Rue du Dr Paccard, you’ll find an abundance of shops displaying their colorful and consumable artwork. Often there will be lines of tourists – which this week often include some of the best trail runners in the world, like Allie Mac— eager to get a cône or pot. The array of options and elaborate flavor combinations are always too much for my indecisive brain, so I make the safe choice– and opt for multiple scoops!
The Crowds (La Foule)
If you are in the center of Chamonix for the start or finish of UTMB, you will be in what might be the single largest crowds of fans, supporters, and onlookers of any ultra trail race in the world. Masses of multinational, flag-waving, cheering people push against the metal barricades. They line up, often waiting for hours to get a close look at some of the most talented ultra trail runners in the world. If they are as persistent as they are lucky, they just might get a high-five from one of their idols.
Cheering Section (Section d’encouragement)
Allez! Allez! Allez!
Here’s something that often goes undocumented: spectators creating an electric vibe at high mountain passes and aid stations. They’re waving flags, wearing costumes, blasting music, and screaming at the top of their lungs, giving a much-needed boost to runners pushing hard on the course.
Cheers to Beer! (Santé à la Bière!)
Ahhh, one of my favorite topics: Good Beer! If you ever forgot the name of this local brewery, just look up and Mont Blanc will remind you: Big Mountain. Stopping for a cold beer reminds me of good times past, and it’s a chance to catch up with a friend over a fresh IPA or Mountain Lager. It’s also a great reminder to slow down and take in the scenery, the people– and what is right in front of you! Santé!
The Sign Points the Way (Le Panneau Montre le Chemin)
These signs are found in abundance on the trails to guide hikers to villages, refuges, trailheads and other destinations. They don’t indicate distance to a destination; instead, they offer an estimated time for an average hiker. If you are a runner, you can plan roughly twice as fast as the posted time, allowing you to feel a smug sense of self-satisfaction!
Mill Street (Rue des Moulins)
The narrow pedestrian street named Rue des Moulins, once home to mills powered by the adjacent Arve river, is abundant with craft coffee, gourmet pizza restaurants, and eclectic drinking establishments. Hands down, the best known business along this picturesque, narrow road is Cool Cats, a tiny restaurant with on-street seating which sells hot dogs, both traditional and veggie, with elaborate fixings. I opted for the vegetarian overflowing with toppings: fried onions, avocado, chives and even a sunny side up egg! There were so many toppings that I forgot there was even a dog under all that goodness.
Enjoy your Meal (Bon Appétit)
It’s true. The French really do have some of the world’s best cuisine. From cafés offering flakey, buttery croissants, to meat and cheese shops with their dangling sausages and aromatic raclette, your taste buds will never be at a loss.
One of my favorite activities is browsing local grocery stores, where I can spend hours appreciating the unique snacks, fresh fruit and vegetables, and, of course, the beer aisle. Chamonix is one of the best locations for food and restaurants that I have ever come across, even for non-French meals. On my last night in town, 30 minutes before midnight, I desperately looked for an open restaurant. The matriarch of Annapurna – Spécialités Indiennes restaurant – told me they were already closed but that she could give me an order of red curry with rice to go. I accepted– and it was one of the best Indian dishes I have ever had in my life. Five Stars!
Smoke Break (Pause Cigarette)
Just a few meters from the start and finish arch of UTMB, at the back door of a restaurant in the main square, I noticed the same chef several times. He was escaping his culinary duties for a cigarette break. On one passing, I made eye contact and we nodded to each other and I thought about stopping. After a few more steps, I convinced myself to turn around and approach him. I wasn’t sure how he would react to me asking him if I could take his portrait, but after a few seconds of stumbling, I communicated that I had seen him taking his cigarette breaks several times and wanted to take his photo. He was a little taken aback: “Moi?” he asked. Very humbly, and a little bashfully, he agreed. He’s how I picture the prototypical Frenchman.
Insider UTMB Info
For even more UTMB Mont-Blanc® tips, guides, and experiences, check out our other resources:
A Pre-UTMB Visit with Katie Schide
A Trail Runner’s Tour of Chamonix
Run the Alps Underground Guide to UTMB® Week in Chamonix
Visiting Chamonix during UTMB: A First-Timer’s Guide
David Laney’s Tips for running the UTMB®
UTMB® Blog List from Run the Alps
Peter Maksimow is a bearded, ex-elite mountain and trail runner turned somewhat pro-photographer who also happens to be perpetually injured. He is a connoisseur of craft beer, a world traveler, a three-time US Mountain Running team member, and was part of the silver medal-winning US team at the 2015 World Long Distance Mountain Running Championship in Zermatt, Switzerland. He lives in Manitou Springs, CO, right at the base of Pikes Peak.