Visiting Chamonix during UTMB: A First-Timer’s Guide

By Kara Folkerts

As I settled into the Chamonix valley mid-August, I witnessed the shift in town. The busy tourist season swelled with the excitement and nerves of the incoming racers, coaches, family and friends for the biggest event in the trail and ultra running community. The streets of Chamonix filling with bright running shorts, carbon-fiber trail running poles, and meticulously dialed running packs could only mean one thing – UTMB Mont-Blanc® race week was fast approaching. 

I was excited to be around for UTMB week as a ‘first-timer.’ UMTB has been on my radar for years thanks to following some of my favorite athletes and coaches. Knowing many of them would be present this week, I couldn’t wait to be a part of it all. 

Chamonix is already a trail runner’s paradise, even without the excitement of the race. Look up in any direction and there will be endless options of ridges to run, trails to connect, mountain huts to visit, and singletrack trails to cruise. Walk through town and you’ll be overwhelmed with shop options carrying all your favorite mountain running gear. There are endless running packs and shoes to try, options for sport nutrition, and every color of running sock you didn’t know you needed. Add in the best pre-run coffee at Moody Coffee Roaster, follow it with the best post-run brew at Big Mountain Brewing Company, and you’re pretty much set.

But as UTMB race week approached and more athletes, coaches, and race supporters filled the valley, the spirit of Chamonix changed. While I’m typically not one for crowds, the growing numbers created a positive shift in energy that I found inspiring. There’s a shared sense of camaraderie created from the thousands of like-minded trail runners coming together from all corners of the globe with similar goals. Excitement buzzed through the town and it quickly became the norm to see your favorite trail athletes at the supermarket or getting in their last training runs on the trails. 

On the last Monday of August, the first of the runners kicked off the week– there was PTL, the “Petite Trot à Leon,” an infamous 300km team adventure, along with the 40km MCC, or Martigny-Combe-Chamonix run. The best aspect of the week was that there was something happening every day. With the variation of race distances and starts, it seemed that anytime you went into Chamonix there was a race happening, with determined runners coming up the streets towards the finish line in front of the Saint Michel church. Continuous support and cheering from passersby filled the village. Race week was also chock full of events hosted by brands and athletes. There were fun shake-out runs, shoe testing opportunities, climate action talks and films, and athlete presentations about nutrition and fueling strategies. The race expo area, the Ultra-Trail Village, is made up of miniature chalets offering a chance to visit your favorite brands, try out gear, and learn about new products and companies in the running world. 

It was incredible to watch the magic unfold. I got to see and even meet some athletes I’ve been inspired by for years: Tyler Green, Krissy Moehl, Courtney Dauwalter, Katie Schide, Billy Yang, and more! Plus, I got to cheer on several friends racing CCC, OCC, and UTMB. Come Friday evening, the town overflowed with the startline hype of the main event, the 171 km full loop around Mont Blanc, the UTMB. As nearly 2,500 racers flooded into the streets of Chamonix, buzzing with excitement and nerves, it was impossible not to get lost in the thrill of it all. 

With a 4:45 am wake up call on Saturday, I headed out with a few Run the Alps guides and tour guests to watch racers pass through the Swiss villages of Champex-Lac and Trient, and then Vallorcine, France, on their way back to Chamonix. We cheered racers as they made their way through the aid stations and onwards to the next section of the race. We watched the battle for first place between US runners Jim Wamsley and Zach Miller, and saw Courtney Dauwalter pass by, looking as joyful as ever. 

As I headed back to Chamonix to watch the first finishers, I was in awe. From Saturday evening and into Sunday, I got to witness hundreds of other finishers. A few runners brought me to tears by their sheer amount of grit, passion, and persistence. Cheering as part of the huge crowd also created a sense of bonding, commitment, connection, and support within the sport of ultra running. Between both the runners and the crowds, the mix of smiles, tears, exhaustion, and joy was remarkable.

UTMB is an event that brings together thousands of people from across the globe and is a celebration of our sport and the community. Being there for the first time left me more inspired, grateful, and committed to both my personal journey and the experience we share through the joys and challenges of ultra running.

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Tips for visiting Chamonix during UTMB Mont-Blanc®

1. Embrace the chaos! I won’t sugar coat it – it can be overwhelming during UTMB week in Chamonix. However, it’s important to remember that everyone has a similar interest and love of the sport as you. While it can feel like a bit too much at times, embrace the chaos, liveliness, and energy that’s in town. The people, the nervous and excited energy, the busier than usual streets and trails – it’s all about coming together for a shared passion.

2. Get there early.  Whether it’s to a race view point, UTMB’s Chamonix start and finish line, taking a stroll through the town center, or going for your own run in the morning, wake up early! Chamonix is pretty sleepy before 9 or 10 am, at which time the crowds get moving.  

3. Buy groceries on the outskirts of town. If you’re eating out, enjoy all the delicious restaurants in the area and be sure to make a reservation! If you’re cooking from your accommodation, go to some of the markets just outside the center for better prices.  Or head to one of the large supermarkets down the valley in Sallanches for a big stock up.

4. Grab a pint at the local microbrewery, Big Mountain Brewing. Does this one even need explanation? 

5. Plan ahead.  There are a ton of great viewing spots along the UTMB course. Often roads can get overwhelmed with high traffic between locations, and there are a number of road closures during the event, too. However, good local bus and train options exist. The UTMB race organization strongly discourages visitors from driving during the week, and instead make use of the extensive, additional mobility plan they’ve implemented. Think ahead with your timing, figure out where you’d like to view the race from, allow yourself extra time, and plan accordingly. And when you’re not traveling around the region, you can always watch the race online thanks to UTMB’s live coverage. 

6. Be courteous and have fun! UTMB is bringing together people from all across the globe for a sport we all love so much. Be kind to those around you, help each other out, respect one another, and have a ton of fun being a part of all the buzz and excitement that is UTMB! 

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Insider UTMB Info

For even more UTMB Mont-Blanc®  tips, guides, and experiences, check out our other resources:

A Trail Runner’s Tour of Chamonix

Run the Alps Underground Guide to UTMB® Week in Chamonix

David Laney’s Tips for running the UTMB®

UTMB® Blog List from Run the Alps

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